Most people buying a container for the first time are deciding three things at once: how big, what condition, and whether the truck can actually reach the spot. Get those three right and the rest is paperwork. This guide takes them in order, with the real dimensions and the price bands from our own catalog.
If you want the short version: a 20ft cargo-worthy used container is the right answer for most storage jobs, it needs about 60 ft of straight approach, and delivery is a flat $500 added at checkout, to any of the 50 states.
1Step 1: Choosing a Size
Length sets floor area; height sets what you can stack. A standard container is 8'6" tall outside, a high cube is 9'6" — one extra foot that matters more than people expect once shelving goes in.
| Size | Floor area | Volume | Typical use | Price band |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10ft | 72 sq ft | 561 cu ft | Tight yards, garden storage, small tools | $2,100 – $3,810 |
| 20ft | 146 sq ft | 1,172 cu ft | The default. Site storage, a garage bay, household contents | $1,050 – $14,000 |
| 40ft | 300 sq ft | 2,389 cu ft | Large inventory, two cars end to end, plant and machinery | $1,150 – $10,000 |
| 45ft | 338 sq ft | 3,037 cu ft | High-volume storage where the extra 5 ft still fits the site | $1,800 – $5,400 |
| 53ft | 429 sq ft | 3,830 cu ft | Maximum footprint; domestic rail dimensions, not ocean ISO | $2,200 – $15,500 |
Price bands are the live range for plain storage and shipping containers in that size, across all grades. Finished builds — offices, pools, cabins — and refrigerated units price separately and higher.
The mistake to avoid: buying two 20ft units when one 40ft would do. A 40ft gives you roughly double the volume, usually for well under double the price, and costs the same flat $500 to deliver. The reason to choose two 20s is access or splitting them across sites — not capacity. Our 20ft vs 40ft comparison works through it, and the full specifications table has every dimension.
2Step 2: Choosing a Condition Grade
Grade is the single biggest lever on price, and the terminology is genuinely confusing because “new” does not mean unused. These are the four grades we sell, and what each one actually is:
| Grade | What it is | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| New (One-Trip) | Built at the factory, loaded once to ship here, then sold. Typically 1–2 years old with factory paint and an undamaged floor. This is what “new” means in this industry. | Modifications, anything visible to customers, long service life |
| New | Recent-build units sold as new stock. | Same as one-trip, where appearance matters |
| Refurbished | A used unit that has been repaired and repainted — corrosion treated, panels and gear made good, resprayed. Sound and tidy, with a service history behind it. | Buyers who want the look of new steel at a used price |
| Used (Cargo Worthy) | Retired from ocean service after roughly 5–15 years. Structurally sound, doors and floor serviceable, dry inside. Surface rust, dents and mismatched paint are expected and cosmetic. | Storage, site security, anything where working steel beats pretty steel |
You will also see wind and watertight (WWT) and as-is / storage class used across the industry. Those describe sealing and condition rather than cargo certification. Where a unit is graded that way, its listing says so.
Which to pick: if the container will be stored behind a fence and filled with tools, buy used cargo-worthy and spend the difference on a decent lock and a level base. If it will be cut into, insulated, or seen by customers, start with one-trip — modifying a rusty shell costs more than the shell saved. Grades explained in full, and how to inspect a used unit.
3Step 3: Will the Truck Reach the Spot?
This is the step that goes wrong, and it goes wrong after you have paid. Containers arrive on a tilt-bed truck: the bed tips, the container slides off the back, and the truck pulls forward out from under it. That means the driver needs a straight run behind the final position roughly equal to the container length again.
| Container | Straight approach needed | Width | Overhead clearance |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10ft | ~50 ft | ~12 ft | ~15 ft |
| 20ft | ~60 ft | ~12 ft | ~15 ft |
| 40ft | ~80 ft | ~12 ft | ~15 ft |
| 45ft | ~85 ft | ~12 ft | ~15 ft |
| 53ft | ~93 ft | ~12 ft | ~15 ft |
Overhead is the one people forget: low branches, gutters, phone lines and gateway arches all sit right around the height a tilting bed sweeps through. Walk the route from the road to the spot and look up.
The ground needs to be firm and reasonably level. Containers carry their whole load on the four corner castings, so those four points are what matter — not the middle. Gravel, compacted hardcore, concrete pads or railroad ties under the corners all work. Soft ground, fresh fill and grass in wet weather do not. Full detail in our foundation and ground prep guide and the delivery guide.
4What It Actually Costs
Three numbers, and no others:
- The container — the listed price, which is what you pay for the unit.
- Delivery: flat $500, added at checkout. The same $500 to any of the 50 states, regardless of container size, quantity or distance. It is not included in the listed price, and there is no distance, size or fuel surcharge on top.
- Your site prep — whatever gravel, ties or pad you decide to put under the corners. Paid to whoever does that work, not to us.
We do not charge a crane fee, a rural fee, a liftgate fee or a fuel levy. If your site genuinely cannot take a tilt-bed truck and needs a crane, that is a conversation to have before you order, not after.
See shipping policy for delivery terms and sales tax policy for how tax is handled. Typical timing is 1–3 business days handling plus 4–7 days transit, so most deliveries land 5–10 business days after payment clears.
5Before You Order: A Checklist
- Measured the spot, and the route to the spot — including overhead.
- Decided standard vs high cube. If shelving or a workbench is going in, high cube.
- Checked whether your municipality requires a permit for a container on your property. This varies by city and county, not just by state — our state guides cover the ones we have researched, and the permits guide covers the general shape of it. Ask your local building department; they answer this question all the time.
- Planned what the corners sit on.
- Read the grade on the listing, not just the price.
- Noted that built-to-order units — pools, cabins, offices, flat-packs, toilet blocks — are excluded from the 30-day return window once production starts. Plain containers are not.
6Frequently Asked Questions
What size shipping container do I need?
For most storage jobs, a 20ft container at 146 sq ft holds the contents of a small house or a well-equipped workshop. Step up to a 40ft (300 sq ft) if you are storing vehicles, plant, or pallet racking. Go down to a 10ft (72 sq ft) only if access or yard space forces it — the price per square foot is much worse.
What does one-trip mean?
A one-trip container was built at the factory, loaded with cargo for a single voyage to bring it to this continent, and then sold. It is typically one to two years old. It is the closest thing to a new container available domestically, and it is what almost every seller means by “new”.
How much space do I need for delivery?
Roughly the container length plus 40 feet of straight approach, about 12 feet of width, and 15 feet of overhead clearance. For a 20ft container that is about 60 feet of clear straight run. The tilt-bed truck needs to reverse in, tip, and pull forward out from under the container.
How much does delivery cost?
A flat $500 per order to any of the 50 states, added at checkout. It does not change with container size, quantity or distance, and there is no fuel or rural surcharge on top of it.
Do I need a permit for a shipping container?
It depends on your municipality, and it is usually decided at city or county level rather than by state. Some places treat a container as an accessory structure needing a permit, others exempt structures under a certain size, and a few restrict them in residential zones entirely. Call your local building department before you order — it is a routine question for them.
Is a used container watertight?
A cargo-worthy or wind-and-watertight used container is sealed against weather and dry inside. What it is not is condensation-proof: warm damp air inside a cold steel box will form water on the ceiling regardless of how good the seals are. That is a ventilation and insulation question, not a leak.
Can I modify a container after delivery?
Yes, and most people do — vents, windows, doors, insulation, shelving. Cutting into the walls does affect the shell's strength, so keep openings away from the corner posts and have anything structural checked. Starting from a one-trip unit is usually cheaper overall than starting from a rusty one.
How long will it last?
A container that sits on a well-drained base with its corners clear of standing water, and gets its rust spots touched up rather than ignored, will outlast most buildings it shares a yard with. One left sitting directly on wet soil will rot from the bottom rail up. The ground it sits on matters more than the grade you bought.
7Ready to Order?
Browse the full catalog or start with the 20ft and 40ft ranges, which cover most requirements. Add to cart and check out to pay by card or bank transfer, or ask us if you would rather talk it through first.
If you are not sure the truck can reach your spot, tell us the access and we will tell you honestly whether it works.
Not sure which container you need?
Tell us the job and the site access, and we will point you at the right size and grade.